BMW E36 Blog

Tips For The BMW E36 Owners

24th March 2008

Tips For The BMW E36 Owners

 

This is a list of tips for the BMW E36 owners. Some are for the new owners and some are for the experienced and some of these tips are made just for fun. Read the list carefully, I hope you find it useful and enjoyable:-

Note: I underlined some of the tips that I think are very important.


The coolant pump (water pump) will either fail or start leaking.

The upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing will break.

The cooling system may require several bleed sessions to completely rid the system of air. The coolant low indication will appear on the OBC.

The VANOS rattles like pebbles in a tin can.

The valve train sounds like a diesel after sitting for a few days or on cold morning start ups.

The brake pad sensors do not require replacement unless the brake pad symbol is illuminated in the instrument cluster.

The brake circuit failure indication on the OBC is cleared by replacing the switch located above the brake pedal.

The clutch pedal squeaks and moves laterally due to worn bushings. Replace with Delrin AF bushings.

The clutch slave cylinder is a high fail component. Replace it and bleed the clutch system before dropping large cash on a clutch job.

Flush and bleed the brake fluid every two years.

Flush and bleed the cooling system every two years. Use BMW coolant and distilled water 50/50 mix.

Replace the thermostat housing with an aluminum aftermarket.

There are no adverse effects of using synthetic fluids at any mileage.

The shifter can be replaced with a short shift kit, including Delrin AF bushings, for ~$175.00

Wheel offset means the number of millimeters the mounting surface is from the centerline of the rim.

Buy a quality clicker type torque wrench.

Buy a Bentley Manual.

Batteries fail when the weather turns cold.

Belt tensioner and idler pullies fail and make hideous noises.

Buy a set of Blitz Rhino ramps.

Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil is available at Wal-Mart for cheap.

Distilled water is in the water aisle at the grocery store.

Buy a quality floor jack.

Buy quality jack stands.

Buy wheel chocks.

Buy a fire extinguisher.

Torque wheel bolts to spec. to avoid rotor warp.

Establish a good relationship with the parts guy at the local dealer.

Tip said parts guy.

Clutch Judder is normal in traffic jams due to hot clutch plates

Don’t buy Lexus type rear lights, its not big nor clever!

Does my car have LSD? Solution; get in some dirt or sandy pavement (as not to abuse the car) and spin the damn tires, or jack the rear up and turn one rear wheel and see if the other spins the same way.

Yellowing and faded plastic headlight covers can be restored by using Mequiars #10 and #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish

The dealer will try to [Oops!] you! If there are no independent bimmer mechanics in your area, leave a jar of vaseline with the dealership service manager along with your keys

The check engine light is USUALLY caused by the o2 sensor but there may be other reasons for it to be set off

The little O with ridges around it are the brake pad sensors. They are in the LF and RR

The e36 does have a ‘natural’ lean when driverless and looked at from behind

DTM tips were invented Osama bin Laden….don’t support terrorism

OBD2 cars cannot be ‘chipped’ there must be a software download

Chips and ’sharked’ downloads merely advance the ignition timing and will not make your car beat a Corvette

E36’s are not drag cars, due to their diff ratios. If an Integra beats you, your stoopid azz deserves it

Larger rims and speaker boxes will add weight and slow down your car although you think louder means it’s moving faster

When you hear a “thunk” from the middle of the car, it’s probably the Guibo. (flex disk)

When you hear a “thunk” from the back of the car, it’s probably the Rear Shock Mounts. (RSMs)

If it’s cold, and you have trouble starting the car, you probably have a cold starting problem.

$tealer survival list includes: credit card with high credit limit, ETK & TIS, an attorney, and Vaseline.

Q: I just changed my spark plugs now I’m getting rough idle.
A: Gee, could it be the new Platinum+4 spark plugs you just put in?

RTFM - Read the Farking Manual!

The *ding* you hear when it is cold out means It IS cold out, duh! (dings at 38F)

325/328/M3 exhausts are interchangeable. 318 are not.

Buy an genuine BMW water pump

An M3 lever is a short shifter for a 325

A Z3 lever is a short shifter for a 328

Have all rear bushings inspected regularly on 325s

Oil the seats regularly

There is a moonroof available but it is very expensive.

If you want nitrous, you’ve bought the wrong car :lol: .

The value of a car does not increase with mods by any logical amount

Yes, red cars ARE faster

This car will NOT get you laid.

A faulty seatbelt sensor will cause the SRS warning light to stay on

Not closing the gas cap all the way will cause an engine warning light just about every time.

Once you take the dashboard apart you will NEVER get the glovebox door to line up perfectly again.

before disconnecting the battery. Make sure you write down the radio code or have the radio code card that comes in the owners manual.

The most popular setup of aftermarket name brand shocks for the E36 are H&R w/ Bilsteins.

The tire in the trunk helps to maintain a near 50-50 weight ratio. If you decide to auto-X the car, you may want to leave the spare tire in the car.

For OBDI E36’s you can use the pedal trick to get the fault codes. For OBDII, you will need a code reader.

If you find oil in your spark plug well, most likely cause is that your valve cover gasket is leaking.

You can “double lock” your doors by turning your key all the way to the right from the drivers side door and all the way left from the passenger side door.

The two significant problems on the early 318’s were the profile gasket (which is not a head gasket) and the Bad Valeo alternators

Pulsating headlights usually indicates your voltage regulator or alternator needs changing

The profile gasket affected only the M42 engines

The 318’s have had 3 separate belt and pulley configurations between the M42 and M44

Altezza tailights were created by Satan himself…do not support raw evil

Chips do work, but the wont make your car wheelie like herbie the luv bug it will simply increase your ignition timing for a more robust/smoother torque curve

 

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posted in Brakes, Cooling System, Electrical, Engine, Performance, Technical Info, Tips & Tricks, Uncategorized | 0 Comments

5th March 2008

BMW E36 Electric Supercharger Kit

 

If you’re like the rest of us, interested in enhancing your car’s performance, then I’m sure that you’ve heard of the Electric Supercharger kits. These are usually cheap and claiming that they will give you more HP (Horse Power) that can reach up to 10+hp :lol: . Well, I’ve decided to write this post to tell you all that this does NOT work. Take a look at this:


bmw e36 electric supercharger

 

This is an example of an electric supercharger kit which claims to save your fuel, enhance your car’s power and give you a faster acceleration. Well, don’t believe everything you read. These are called "leaf blowers" :lol: because they simply can’t provide your engine with the required amount of air that a real supercharger does. The funny thing about these electric superchargers is that they normally cost less than $100. So, how the hell BMW engineers skipped adding such an important feature to their high-tech engines? I’m sure they didn’t think about this idea LOL! .

Anyway, if you want to read about real superchargers that can really push your car’s performance, then you will need to read this and this. Please pay attention to the pricing on these bad boys. They usually cost thousands of dollars and this explains why they’re not installed in all standard cars. Enjoy and sorry if I have disappointed you in finding a cheap and easy way to boost your car’s performance :D

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posted in Engine, Performance, Technical Info, Tips & Tricks, Uncategorized | 4 Comments

30th January 2008

BMW E36 Rough Idle Problems

 

Rough idle problems are really common on BMW E36 cars and there are a lot of problems that may cause this to appear. First I will show you a video of such a rough idle and then list the possible problems that may cause that.

Take a look:-

The possible reasons for such a problem are:

1. Oxygen Sensor is gone: You can run a diagnosis to see if this is the problem. If you find out that it’s the problem, you should replace it. Read Everything you need to know about Oxygen Sensor! for more information about oxygen sensors.

2. Idle Control Valve: Dirty idle control valve is a very common problem in BMW E36 cars that may cause rough idle. You can use this DIY (Do It Yourself) to learn about Cleaning E36 ICV (Idle Control Valve)

3. Plugs and Distributor: You may need to replace these to solve your problem. I however don’t have a way to check them before replacement.

4. The Throttle Position Sensor (TBS) and/or connections may be bad: You can simply disconnect it and see if your problem is solved or not.

 

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posted in Electrical, Engine, Technical Info, Tips & Tricks | 0 Comments

2nd July 2007

Everything you need to know about Oxygen Sensor!

The Oxygen Sensor is usually to blame for problems in the car performance and gas consumption. It’s stunning to discover that it’s hard to fail. I can count many of my friends who went to mechanics for car checkups and ended up changing the Oxygen Sensor. It seems that the mechanics knowing that the Oxygen Sensor is something mysterious to many people will make them believe that it’s broken and need to be changed, even with no obvious reason for that. In this article, you will find all what you need to know about Oxygen Sensor and even how to test it to determine if it’s working fine or not. So, enjoy it and please let me know what you think. Thanks Rick Kirchoff for the original post.

 

Enjoy…

These procedures are only for self powered conventional sensors.

 

Some very new cars are using a different style sensor that is powered. *Many* Oxygen sensors are replaced that are good to excellent. *Many* people don’t know how to test them. They routinely last 50,000 or more miles, and if the engine is in good shape, can last the life of the car.

 

What does the O2 sensor do?

 

It is the primary measurement device for the fuel control computer in your car to know if the engine is too rich or too lean. The O2 sensor is active anytime it is hot enough, but the computer only uses this information in the closed loop mode. Closed loop is the operating mode where all engine control sensors including the Oxygen sensor are used to get best fuel economy, lowest emissions, and good power

 

Should the O2 sensor be replaced when the sensor light comes on in your car?

Read the rest of this entry »

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posted in Engine, Technical Info | 15 Comments

23rd June 2007

Cleaning E36 ICV (Idle Control Valve) . . . DIY!

Hi Guys,

 

Car hesitation and RPM bouncing are the most common problems between the BMW E36 cars. It seems that many cars have the problem and the problem is very hard to fix. I recall that even my previous E30 used to have the problem, but some how, the problem was solved. Maybe with something that I did and didn’t notice it fixed the problem.

 

Now my E36 318is is having the same symptoms and it gets very annoying especially when I turn my A/C on.

 

I started looking for a solution to this problem and it seems that cleaning the ICV (Idle Control Value) is one of the most obvious reasons for the problem, so I looked for a DIY about it and found one. The DIY is for M42 engines. I will be writing another post to fix same problem for the M50 engines. Please notice that I didn’t try this DIY myself yet, but I’m going to do it very soon.

 

Please notice that that cleaning the ICV will not always fix the problem, but it’s a very common reason, so if it didn’t totally solve your car’s problem, then you have other issues, but since the procedure is very simple, I guess everyone should start with it. Please follow the steps below and see if this fixes your car’s RPM bouncing problem. Enjoy ;-)

 

 

Disclaimer: Use this info at your own risk!! I’m not responsible if this didn’t work for you.

This DIY / write-up will require the following tools/supplies:

Flashlight would be helpful.

11mm socket

Flathead screwdriver

Throttle body (TB) cleaner

OEM hoses if in need of replacement

Throttle body gasket and intake manifold gasket (not technically necessary, but a good idea)

 

It took me about an hour to remove, clean, and put back the ICV. Plus I let the hoses dry (while out of the car) for about 20 minutes on top of that.

 

First, start by opening the hood with the engine off and hopefully not too hot, as you will make contact with the block and the intake manifold.

 

You will take off the intake tube, shown below, by loosening the screws at the blue arrows, and pulling off the hose at the red arrow. Then pull the intake tube off completely.

 

 

Next, you remove the throttle body, by four 11mm bolts. The top two are shown with red arrows below. The bottom two are on the bottom of the TB, in the same position as the top two.

 

 

Move the throttle body off to the side, to gain access to the upper intake manifold, like this:

 

 

Next, we’ll disconnect the hose connecting the manifold to the ICV we wish to remove and clean. Behind the manifold, at the back of the engine bay, is the hose. Just twist it off, as shown by the red arrow.

 

 

Now it’s time to remove the upper intake manifold. Undo all 5 of the 11mm nuts attaching it to the lower manifold. The nut locations are highlighted below with red arrows. The nut in the rear of the engine bay is hard to get to, but a small 11mm socket and 1/4″ drive ratchet should get it out.

 

 

Next, carefully remove the manifold, by slowly lifting it up. I pried it off woodworker style using the backside of a hammer against the block. Be sure to remove it evenly though, lifting it up equally on all sides. Otherwise it will get stuck on the bolts on the manifold’s drivers side. It is easiest to place it as shown:

 

 

Now we have acces to the ICV. As shown below, it is attached with a rubber strap at the point shown with red arrows. The blue arrows indicate the electrical connection, which pulls of when you press down a wire clip. They also point to the hose connections, which you will also want to remove. Note the arrow on top of the ICV. It points TOWARDS the block. The part label with Bosch and the BMW part number written on it also face the front of the car. This is important. You want to put it back facing the correct direction.

 

 

Now, take the ICV and clean it. The image below shows the ports into which the tubes were plugged, and air flows, with a blue arrow. You’ll want to hit it with an old toothbrush and a gratuitous soaking with the TB cleaner. You may choose to clean the throttle body itself while at it with some paper towels and the cleaner.

 

 

Let everything dry, and clean off the hoses if you’d like. One of mine was cracked and therefore replaced, but washing the oil and grease off of them will help them last longer. Replace any that are cracked! They will make your idle worse and allow unfiltered air into the engine = bad. Be sure to let everything dry, especially items that were cleaned with water (hoses.) Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to connect ALL the hoses - double check!

 

Are you looking for more do it yourself procedures (DIY) ? I recommend the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual for you. I got it and I think it’s a gold mine for us -BMW E36 Owners-. If you didn’t grab your copy yet, get it right now! I’m sure you’ll find this book worth every penny you’ve paid for. Get the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual

 

Wait for more from BMW E36 Blog.

 

Best regards,

Tony Sticks.



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posted in Do It Yourself, Engine, Technical Info | 49 Comments