Hi, These are 3 videos that contain loads of essential information about buying a BMW E36 M3. So, if you’re going to buy one, or if you already have one, I’m sure you’ll find this information very helpful. The videos also try to mention the most common problems known about these cars and how you should check to make sure that your car doesn’t have one of them.

This is a gold mine in my opinion, so after you watch the videos you should be able to tell whether your car was hit before or not. You should know the VIN number locations in your car plus determine if any of the body parts has been replaced by a previous owner or has been messed with.

Take a look, I hope you find these videos useful:-

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BMW E36 Blog: The Ultimate BMW E36 M3 Information Source.

Hi, Today’s post is about a BMW E36 M3 GTR project. The project has originally started with a BMW E36 320 and it ended up like the following 2 videos. It has under the hood a 3,378 cc 8-cylinder engine and it can provide a 550 hp. I suggest you take a look at these videos. They’re just awesome and if you’re looking for more information about this car, you can Google for "Georg Plasa BMW 320". You’ll find a lot of information about this car.

One of the things that I want you to pay attention to is the sound. Just make sure to turn the sound as loud as you can. Also, pay attention in the second video that the driver is not even using his hand to shift gears. How cool is that ?!!!

Enjoy… I hope you like these videos

BMW E36 Blog: The Ultimate E36 Information Source.

Hi Guys,

Today I’ve found this fabulous estroil blue BMW E36. It’s making me feel so bad about my car and about not giving her all the love I could. I’m sure almost (if not all) of you will feel the same after you see the pictures. It’s simply the cleanest BMW E36 M3 I’ve ever seen … seriously. As a bonus to that, the car has 48K miles on it only. Isn’t that awesome? Have you ever seen a cleaner car?

Take a look at the photos and let’s hear your opinions.

BMW E36 Blog: The ultimate E36 information source.

Hi all,

As you may know, I’m still having a problem with my car’s idle. I mainly have 2 problems:

1. When I start my car, the idle bounces for a while and then it becomes stable.

2. While driving, I sometimes notice that the RPM (Rotation Per Minute) moves down until it reaches 200 or maybe less then it comes back again especially when I’m pressing the clutch pedal.

After running an extensive research about these problems, I’ve found many solutions or you may call them suggestions and they’re all over the forums. The solutions for a perfect idle in a BMW E36 are:

1. Cleaning ICV (Idle Control Valve): A very straight forward task. This unfortunately didn’t solve my problem completely but it helped a little bit.

2. Checking/Replacing the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor): I tried to replace it, but nothing has changed.

3. Check for vacuum leaks: Just buy a carborator cleaner can and while the engine is running, spray it around the engine and make sure to listen to the engine sound and see if you can detect any change in the engine’s idle. If anything has changed, it means that you have a vacuum leak. This didn’t result in any problems in my case.

4. Check the ignition coils: I didn’t find any problems with this either.

With these options out of my way, I’m left with a knock sensor error code when I check my car for problems. Actually it’s the 2nd knock sensor which is located in the left side of the cylinder block. For those who don’t know what a knock sensor is, it’s a sensor used to monitor the combustion chamber for engine-damaging knock (according the the Bentley Manual). Unfortunately, the second knock sensor requires removing the upper section of the intake manifold to replace it. So, as you can see, it’s not a very straight forward task, so I took the car to a mechanic and he replaced it (I suggest you do the same if you have the same problem). Now, the knock sensor is working properly. I also asked him about the DISA valve and it turned out that I had a vacuum leak that prevented it from working properly.

Now, after I fixed both problems, I got rid of the second problem completely. Now, I need to do more research about the first problem. I know it’s not going to be that simple and I will need to dig deeper before I have my perfect idle. But I’m not going to despair…

BMW E36 Blog: The ultimate BMW E36 information source.

If you’re thinking about replacing your BMW E36 M42 or M44 spark plugs, then this DIY (Do It Yourself) is for you. It was written by Olaf Johnson. The procedure is very clear and the pictures are just fabulous. I hope you will find it useful. Thanks Olaf.

Disclaimer: Use this info at your own risk!! I’m not responsible if this didn’t work for you :-).

I ordered my set off eBay for $20 free shipping. The dealership wanted $13.95 per plug. I decided to stick to OEM and be simple since this was my first time doing this DIY. I started the car before so I could take note of how the car started before changing the plugs (listen to sound, vibration and start speed).

Start with a cold engine; Get out your tools from the BMW Tool Tray in the trunk. If your tray is empty or molested with as is the case with buying used cars you can buy the two tools from the dealership for $20 or so or get it at eBay or the junkyard for cheap. I’m not sure if other spark plug tools are compatible with these cars.

Removal of the cover to get to the wire set that caps the plugs is easy on the M42/M44 E36 Engines.

OEM Bosch Super Plugs

I finally get to use these tools. This one is the spark plug wrench

Next get the wrench’s twister thingy that allows you to turn the wrench.

Open this by turning the two circles so the slits are vertical.

Careful not to break the cover clip at the front end.

Find your smurf tool and begin pulling the wire set caps off each plug. Start at the front (hole #1) where you can see better and have more room to maneuver.

Use it to pull out the plug wire set. Start at the front since it is easier to get to and see what you are doing.

Slide it over the head and pull up. It may take some effort if your plugs were not changed in a while.

If it is tough to pull you can use the spark plug wrench twister tool to get a good grip.

The cap comes off easily and you will see the hole that the plug sits in. Go to work with your wrench. If your plugs are old and haven’t been changed in awhile get ready to put some elbow grease in. Also remember to turn counter-clockwise to remove the plugs. Be careful not to damage the plug threading or the holes threading that the plug screws into or you could seriously damage your engine (ie. The engine will need to be replaced). So no power tools for this DIY!!! The plugs are also screwed in deep so be prepared to be standing there twisting for a few minutes until the plug releases.

Hole #1: You will hear a nice suction pop when the wire set cap is released from the hole.

use the wrench like this. Twist counter clockwise to release the plug. Again if your plugs are old it will be stubborn for the first twist. It’s also screwed in deep so keep at it until you feel the plug is loose.

Keep twisting. They are screwed in deep so be patient.

Hole #4 is particularly difficult to get to. Be creative and use lots of elbow grease especially if your plugs are old and stubborn to twist off.

The Spark Plug Wrench should grip the plug when you are done screwing it loose. Just lift the wrench up and the plug will come out with the wrench. Inspect the old plug, clean the hole* if it is dusty or oily and replace with the new plug and spark plug wire set cap for that hole before moving onto the next hole.

Note: If you have air-in-the-can you should blow any dust or debris out the hole before removing the old plug. You DO NOT WANT to get anything into the hole or chamber that lies below the plug. So once the old plug is out DO NOT clean or put anything down there. It may get into your chamber and damage the engine. And that is a trip to the dealership you do not want to make since a new engine will run you $5,000 to $8,000 plus the labor cost at around that much.

Some of your plug holes may be covered in oil and may look like this when you pull them out. A little bit of oil should be fine for now like I have here in my 2nd plug hole, but a lot of oil and you should replace the Valve Head gasket as soon as you can which is an easy DIY.

The threads on my second plug is covered in oil but the spark plug’s head is dry ?!

Inside second plug’s hole after the plug is removed notice oil trail. There was no oil deep inside the hole, and at best I could only see oil on the ledge.

Second plug:

Two of my middle plugs at hole#2 and #3 had oil in them, with 2 being the worse. Oddly enough, the oil was only on the top half and the threads of the plug but there was absolutely no oil on the business end of the plug a.k.a the spark plug head

When you are done you can inspect the old plugs for clues as to what is going on inside your engine block. I haven’t worked out how to read plugs yet, but I will read up on it later. You can easily Google this info.

When you are done clean your tools and put everything back and start your car and listen to the engine and note the start up time. Does it sound/start better?

Are you looking for more do it yourself procedures (DIY) ? I recommend the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual for you. I got it and I think it’s a gold mine for us -BMW E36 Owners-. If you didn’t grab your copy yet, get it right now! I’m sure you’ll find this book worth every penny you’ve paid for. Get the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual

BMW E36 Blog: The ultimate BMW E36 information source.