BMW E36 Blog

Let me start this post by welcoming our new friend Denise Wright. As you may know I’ve been trying to make a group of BMW E36 enthusiasts from the readers of this blog. I have posted a previous topic Welcome BMW E36 blog readers! in which I asked everyone who reads this blog to write a little bit about him/her self. So if you didn’t read this post yet please do and lets hear from you. I feel really happy when I hear from you guys.

OK, now for the post of today that I know most of you will like very much. This is a DIY (do it yourself) post which will teach you how to install those cute silver gauge cluster rings on your BMW. I really love the way the gauges look after the installation. I also love this DIY as it’s very simple and can be done by almost anyone who doesn’t have any experience in cars. Let not forget to thank Komodo who wrote this great DIY.

Enjoy the post and lets see how things go with you.

Disclaimer: Use this info at your own risk!! I’m not responsible if this didn’t work for you.

This is a DIY for installing those silver gauge rings you can find all the time on
eBay for about $30-35. Here is an after stock photo of how this mod changes your car. It’s a simple mod, but makes a big difference.

 

 

Tools needed:

– T10 Torque Screwdriver with a long thin handle (one screw is pretty deep inside)

– Phillips head screw driver

 

1) Unscrew the gauge cluster. There are two screws and some friction holding your cluster in. One screw is on each side of the top, as shown in this picture:

 

 

Unscrew those screws and push on the bottom of the glass to loosen the unit. Mine was stuck in there pretty good, so it took a good amount of pressure and jiggling to break it free.

 

2) It should now slide forward and up to the steering wheel.

 

 

IMPORTANT: At this point you’re about to begin messing with electrical parts, so please stop and disconnect your battery before continuing. Leaving it plugged in might make you physically unable to finish this DIY.

 

When you reach behind the unit, you’ll feel three wire bundles connecting it to the car. Two are on the right (one big vertical one, and one small horizontal one just below it), and one big vertical plug is on the left.

 

 

This is probably the trickiest part of the whole installation. You must reach behind the unit (probably blindly) and unplug them, however they are not a normal plug. There’s a little button you must push in the middle of the latch, then slide the clip up until the connection comes lose. Here’s a picture to try and explain it better:

 

 

Then after it’s free just slide it out beside the wheel (again, might require a bit of creative shaking and squeezing, but it’s easily possible.

 

 

3) Now you should have the unit out of the car. Bring it inside or somewhere with good light and go get your T10 torque screw driver. There’s 5 screws, as shown by this image of the back of the cluster. Two up top, one on each side, and one deep screw in the very middle.

 

 

Unscrew them all, pull gently, and the unit should split open:

 

 

4) Now look at the faceplate half of the unit (the top half in the picture above). There are three unique, German engineered, “finger screws” holding the faceplate against the glass. It’s the round black circle knobs on each side, and one in the top middle. To unscrew these, simple twist the white part the direction they will move to free the face plate. Here’s a close up of one of the finger screws:

 

 

5) After all of them are turned to the unlocked/open position, gently pull the faceplate up and it should separate:

 

 

Now simply take your rings and pop them on to the left part of the above picture. Mine were very tight and clipped on, the friction plenty to hold them on through anything, however I know some of the rings are a lot looser and might require some creative glueing to get them to stay.

 

Here’s a picture of the rings on just that piece. Notice the Bugatti Veyron Top Gear on the projector in the background. This is a must for this DIY. If you don’t watch Top Gear while installing the rings, they won’t work.

 

 

6) Now the reverse install. Put the faceplate back in the glass (re-screwing the three thumb screws all the way to ensure nothing moves), then using the torque screws, reattach the back half of the gauge cluster.

 

 

Take it back to your car then, slide it beside the steering wheel, push it firmly into it’s hole, and screw the top two screws in.

 

 

Congratulations, you now have silver gauge rings installed in your car.

 

Are you looking for more do it yourself procedures (DIY) ? I recommend the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual for you. I got it and I think it’s a gold mine for us -BMW E36 Owners-. If you didn’t grab your copy yet, get it right now! I’m sure you’ll find this book worth every penny you’ve paid for. Get the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual

BMW E36 Blog: The ultimate BMW E36 information source.

Hi Guys,

First of all, let me start today’s post by welcoming our new friend Mortuis Gratis. As you may know, I added the post Welcome BMW E36 blog readers! and I asked the members of this blog to fill in their information in order to get to know each other. The goal is to create a community of BMW E36 enthusiasts. So, if you love BMW E36 cars, and didn’t read that post yet, please do and remember to post your information. I really like hearing from you guys. Until this moment, I received responses from 6 guys and girls + me :-), but of course I’m looking for more E36 lovers.

Now for today’s post: In the last couple days, I noticed that my right headlight is getting very dirty and it even started screaming at me to clean it. Every time I see that light, I feel a little guilty for leaving it like this and try to pretend like I didn’t see it. Yesterday, I decided to look up for some information on how to clean BMW E36 headlights and fortunately, I found this DIY (Do It Yourself!) on how this can be done. From the description of the process, it seems quite easy and I’m intending to do it for my car very soon. But, I hope that my headlights can be cleaned in the same way. My car has a totally different headlights, and I’m not sure if this procedure will work on it. But I don’t have anything to lose, so I will try it.

You too, if your headlights are dirty or started looking ugly, maybe it’s time for you to do some cleaning. Please read the DIY below and if you have any notes or questions , please let me know.

Disclaimer: Use this info at your own risk!! I’m not responsible if this didn’t work for you.

1. First, you have to remove your corner lamps. Remove the indicator lamp bulb, then use a screwdriver to pry the clip that holds the indicator lamp free. Slide the indicator lamp out forwards.

 

2. You can now remove the headlights. To do so, you need to remove the 3 screws that are on the top, and two on the side. On my car, they were all Phillips screws. The screw below the indicator lamp area is quite hard to get to. It would probably be relatively easy if you have a short Phillips screwdriver.

 

Pull the headlamp out towards you, then disconnect the connectors. Set your precious headlamp down on a soft, gentle surface!

 

 

3. There will be 2 small metal clips on both the top and bottom of the ellipsoids. Unclip them by prying them off with a flathead screwdriver. Remember to pry from the plastic end because you might break/chip the glass if you apply too much force on it.

 

4. Unhook the 5 big plastic clips (3 on top and 2 on the bottom) with a flathead screwdriver.

 

 

5. You should now be able to separate the lens part from the reflector part of the headlight. Pull them in separate directions. They might be tight, so wiggle them free.

 

6. This is how your headlight will look like when it has been opened:

 

 

7. Notice that both lenses are held in by factory silicone. Using a blade, slice them off. Your lenses should now fall out quite easily. If they don’t, you can use a flathead screwdriver to gently nudge it out. Be very, very careful!

 

 

8. Clean the insides of the headlight thoroughly. I sprayed window cleaner then used newspaper to wipe it clean. You may want to wipe the projector for the low beam as well. Remember to wipe underneath the projector lens! You will see a definite improvement in clarity.

 

9. Make sure you have gotten rid of most, if not all, of the factory silicone. Put the lenses back into their original positions. Double check by looking at the orientation of the other headlight. Now, apply new silicone (I used Selley’s Marine Sealant silicone) to the rim of the lenses (where the factory silicone was before). Let the silicone dry, then make sure the lenses are secure.

 

 

10. Double check for any smudges on the glass, then reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly.

 

Now, let’s make a comparison:

 

Dirty Left Ellipsoid

 

 

Clean Right Ellipsoid

 

 

 

At this point you’ll say “That was worth it!”

 

Are you looking for more do it yourself procedures (DIY) ? I recommend the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual for you. I got it and I think it’s a gold mine for us -BMW E36 Owners-. If you didn’t grab your copy yet, get it right now! I’m sure you’ll find this book worth every penny you’ve paid for. Get the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual

BMW E36 Blog: The ultimate source of information about BMW E36 cars.

Best regards,

Tony Sticks.

Hi Guys,

If your car is showing wrong outside temperature ( -37C or -35F ) like mine, this means that you have a faulty outside temperature sensor (temp sensor) which seems to be a very common problem in the BMW E36 by the way. At first, I thought it’s a hard problem to solve and decided to ignore it, but I found that replacing this sensor is straight forward if you know where it is located. I found some photos of it that you may find useful in locating and then replacing it.

I hope I will be able to fix this problem in my car this weekend. I think you too should do it if it’s broken.

Disclaimer: Use this info at your own risk!! I’m not responsible if this didn’t work for you.

This is where you can find the temp sensor, pretty clever, huh?

 

 

This is a photo of a brand new temp sensor

 

 

Wait for more from BMW E36 Blog.

Best regards,

Tony Sticks.

Hi Guys,

Car hesitation and RPM bouncing are the most common problems between the BMW E36 cars. It seems that many cars have the problem and the problem is very hard to fix. I recall that even my previous E30 used to have the problem, but some how, the problem was solved. Maybe with something that I did and didn’t notice it fixed the problem.

Now my E36 318is is having the same symptoms and it gets very annoying especially when I turn my A/C on.

I started looking for a solution to this problem and it seems that cleaning the ICV (Idle Control Value) is one of the most obvious reasons for the problem, so I looked for a DIY about it and found one. The DIY is for M42 engines. I will be writing another post to fix same problem for the M50 engines. Please notice that I didn’t try this DIY myself yet, but I’m going to do it very soon.

Please notice that that cleaning the ICV will not always fix the problem, but it’s a very common reason, so if it didn’t totally solve your car’s problem, then you have other issues, but since the procedure is very simple, I guess everyone should start with it. Please follow the steps below and see if this fixes your car’s RPM bouncing problem. Enjoy 😉

Disclaimer: Use this info at your own risk!! I’m not responsible if this didn’t work for you.

This DIY / write-up will require the following tools/supplies:

Flashlight would be helpful.

11mm socket

Flathead screwdriver

Throttle body (TB) cleaner

OEM hoses if in need of replacement

Throttle body gasket and intake manifold gasket (not technically necessary, but a good idea)

 

It took me about an hour to remove, clean, and put back the ICV. Plus I let the hoses dry (while out of the car) for about 20 minutes on top of that.

 

First, start by opening the hood with the engine off and hopefully not too hot, as you will make contact with the block and the intake manifold.

 

You will take off the intake tube, shown below, by loosening the screws at the blue arrows, and pulling off the hose at the red arrow. Then pull the intake tube off completely.

 

 

Next, you remove the throttle body, by four 11mm bolts. The top two are shown with red arrows below. The bottom two are on the bottom of the TB, in the same position as the top two.

 

 

Move the throttle body off to the side, to gain access to the upper intake manifold, like this:

 

 

Next, we’ll disconnect the hose connecting the manifold to the ICV we wish to remove and clean. Behind the manifold, at the back of the engine bay, is the hose. Just twist it off, as shown by the red arrow.

 

 

Now it’s time to remove the upper intake manifold. Undo all 5 of the 11mm nuts attaching it to the lower manifold. The nut locations are highlighted below with red arrows. The nut in the rear of the engine bay is hard to get to, but a small 11mm socket and 1/4″ drive ratchet should get it out.

 

 

Next, carefully remove the manifold, by slowly lifting it up. I pried it off woodworker style using the backside of a hammer against the block. Be sure to remove it evenly though, lifting it up equally on all sides. Otherwise it will get stuck on the bolts on the manifold’s drivers side. It is easiest to place it as shown:

 

 

Now we have acces to the ICV. As shown below, it is attached with a rubber strap at the point shown with red arrows. The blue arrows indicate the electrical connection, which pulls of when you press down a wire clip. They also point to the hose connections, which you will also want to remove. Note the arrow on top of the ICV. It points TOWARDS the block. The part label with Bosch and the BMW part number written on it also face the front of the car. This is important. You want to put it back facing the correct direction.

 

 

Now, take the ICV and clean it. The image below shows the ports into which the tubes were plugged, and air flows, with a blue arrow. You’ll want to hit it with an old toothbrush and a gratuitous soaking with the TB cleaner. You may choose to clean the throttle body itself while at it with some paper towels and the cleaner.

 

 

Let everything dry, and clean off the hoses if you’d like. One of mine was cracked and therefore replaced, but washing the oil and grease off of them will help them last longer. Replace any that are cracked! They will make your idle worse and allow unfiltered air into the engine = bad. Be sure to let everything dry, especially items that were cleaned with water (hoses.) Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to connect ALL the hoses – double check!

 

Are you looking for more do it yourself procedures (DIY) ? I recommend the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual for you. I got it and I think it’s a gold mine for us -BMW E36 Owners-. If you didn’t grab your copy yet, get it right now! I’m sure you’ll find this book worth every penny you’ve paid for. Get the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual

Wait for more from BMW E36 Blog.

Best regards,

Tony Sticks.

Hi Guys,

I’ve been looking for information on how to remove the glove box of my car and the job seemed to be a little bit complicated. Anyway, I’ve found a DIY (Do It Yourself) article which describes the process in a very simple way. The steps turned out to be very easy, (not as I thought in the beginning). I hope you guys will like this DIY and find it useful. The article was originally posted on www.e36coupe.com but I found it here in came you may want to take a look.

Disclaimer: Use this info at your own risk!! I’m not responsible for your mistakes man! 😀

For the benefit of anyone out there that is having as much difficulty as I did in removing their glovebox (and then locating the “grommet” that allows you to run power lines from your fuse box to head unit etc.), I’ve produced a picture-rich how-to guide.

 

Ok, there are three different configurations of glovebox. Two (I think) correspond to those cars without a passenger airbag. The main differences for these and the type I describe below are:

 

1) neither have a retaining bolt (E) behind the interior glovebox light

2) the vents themselves (but not the entire assembly) may be pulled off to allow access to the screws A and B in the diagrams below

3) you may have to remove the kick panel by the door

 

I can’t give exact descriptions for these, since I don’t have that type of glovebox!

 

Anyway, first things first, let’s look at the glovebox as it is and locate the screws we need to remove:

 

 

There are three different type of screws, together with E, which is a 10mm bolt (I think it was 10mm – can’t quite remember now). It is important to get the correct screws back in the correct places, otherwise the plastic caps over screws C and D will not go back on. The three screw types look like this:

 

 

I’d recommend removing screws H and I first of all, since it’s easier to do this with the glovebox door closed. They’re under the glovebox (you should be able to feel them – they’re more or less where screws F and G are, except beneath the actual glovebox, and a little way back).

Next, I’d take off screws A and B – they’re pretty easy to do, as long as you have a reasonably long, thin screwdriver. They are in the top left & right corners of the left & right passenger vents, respectively:

 

 

Then we can remove the vent assembly by taking off the plastic caps for screws C and D (in the picture above, screw D still has the plastic cap on) and then removing the screws beneath. The vent assembly should then just pull out; there are a couple of clips, but with a couple of seconds of patience, it comes off pretty easily. Then we’re left with the glovebox itself:

 

 

This is retained my the two remaining screws near the hinges and the bolt that is hidden under the interior light. In addition to these, there are two wires that supply power to the interior light and flashlight charger that need to be removed. First the interior light:

 

 

The interior light is very easy to remove when you find the indentation that is on the left edge, at the back of the light. Prise the light out with a flat bladed screwdriver. Be careful when removing the light itself now, and be sure to disconnect the power lines from the back. In the middle of the recess that held the interior light, there should be a 10mm (I think) bolt, which holds the glovebox onto the metal chassis supporting the airbag assembly. Locate this bolt with your fingers and then, using a wrench (I doubt you’ll be able to get to it using a spanner), unscrew the bolt.

 

Now we can remove the final two screws by the hinges, which can be removed with either an offset screwdriver or a long regular screwdriver:

 

 

Now, the whole glovebox interior should begin to pull out. The only thing left to do is to pull the interior light clear and remove the flashlight charger. Press the clips indicated on the picture earlier with a flat-bladed screwdriver, and pull the back of the charger connector:

 

 

Now we have access to the electrics, should you wish to meddle. While we’re here, I can show you how to get to the mystical grommet that allows access to the engine bay (I routed some dedicated 20 Amp power lines for my Alpine head unit this way). Remove the horizontal kick panel just under the glovebox by pulling (it was secured by screws H and I, which we removed at the beginning of this process):

 

 

As you can see from the picture above, the access hole is beneath the carpet (not the mat, but the actual carpet – it just pulls back if you tug it hard enough) and under its attached heat-retardent foam. It is covered by a round plastic cover (which, incidentally is an exact fit over the cigarette lighter – I’ve now used that to make my car a no-smoking one!). This plastic cover just pulls off, revealing a hole. If you put your finger inside this hole you should feel a metal pipe running upwards (I think it was at about 270° to 315°). If you push a red (or other brightly coloured cable) up here, you should see it appear eventually in the engine bay. Note that if you want to run a black cable as well (and I can see the reason for only running one cable, personally), I’d recommend taping the end of the cables together and pushing them up together. This saves time, and the black cable is very hard to spot when it comes out in the engine bay. Power can then be routed from the fuse box connector (just under the lid of the box – held by a 12mm bolt, I think, and requires a 10mm ring connector on the red cable) and the chassis bolt near the air filter (8mm bolt I think, needing a 6mm ring connector on the black).

 

As for the other end of the power cables, this may be obvious advice, but I’d STRONGLY recommend using female connectors (bullets are perfect). The last thing you want is to use exposed males that end up touching and shorting out the fuse box!

 

Once you’re done, the reassembly is a relatively easy task. However, in order to make sure your glovebox closes do not just reverse the order in which you did everything. The reason being is that the vent assembly (that clips on above the glovebox) has four plastic clips that will almost certainly not fully latch on to the glovebox interior.

 

First of all, if you’ve removed the horizontal kickpanel below the glovebox, reattach this (although do not screw it back in yet, since these screws also hold the bottom of the glovebox, which you have not put back yet). Now, take the vent assembly and turn it over so you’re looking at the back. You should see four clips, two small ones at the top of the assembly and two wider ones at the bottom. Chances are, the ones at the bottom have been bent outwards (away from the rest of the vent assembly) when you removed the plastic unit.

 

 

Carefully bend back the clip so that it forms an 80 or so degree angle (rather than the 100+ degree angle it was after removing the assembly). The picture below should make it clearer.

 

 

Once you’ve bent the bottom clips over, you’re ready to mount the vent assembly on to the glovebox interior (you need to do this before screwing the interior back in to make sure all four clips have taken). Now, reattach the combined glovebox interior and vent assembly into the hole (be careful to make sure the prongs at the bottom of the glovebox fit back inside the horizontal kickpanel piece). I then screwed back bolt E (into the hole left by the interior light), since on mine this required a bit of play in the glovebox to get the thing back into the hole. Then, it’s a simple matter of replacing all the remaining screws. Be careful when putting screws A and B back, as the screws can end up falling inside the vents. Make sure you close the vents first, and just take your time. If the vents are closed, you should be able to retrieve any dropped screws without having to remove the whole unit.

 

Finally, your reassembled glovebox should look as good as (or better than) new. Congratulations!

 

Are you looking for more do it yourself procedures (DIY) ? I recommend the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual for you. I got it and I think it’s a gold mine for us -BMW E36 Owners-. If you didn’t grab your copy yet, get it right now! I’m sure you’ll find this book worth every penny you’ve paid for. Get the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual

Wait for more from . . . BMW E36 Blog

Best regards,

Tony Sticks.