BMW E36 Blog

Cleaning E36 ICV (Idle Control Valve) . . . DIY!

23rd June 2007

Cleaning E36 ICV (Idle Control Valve) . . . DIY!

posted in Do It Yourself, Engine, Technical Info |

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Hi Guys,


Car hesitation and RPM bouncing are the most common problems between the BMW E36 cars. It seems that many cars have the problem and the problem is very hard to fix. I recall that even my previous E30 used to have the problem, but some how, the problem was solved. Maybe with something that I did and didn’t notice it fixed the problem.


Now my E36 318is is having the same symptoms and it gets very annoying especially when I turn my A/C on.


I started looking for a solution to this problem and it seems that cleaning the ICV (Idle Control Value) is one of the most obvious reasons for the problem, so I looked for a DIY about it and found one. The DIY is for M42 engines. I will be writing another post to fix same problem for the M50 engines. Please notice that I didn’t try this DIY myself yet, but I’m going to do it very soon.


Please notice that that cleaning the ICV will not always fix the problem, but it’s a very common reason, so if it didn’t totally solve your car’s problem, then you have other issues, but since the procedure is very simple, I guess everyone should start with it. Please follow the steps below and see if this fixes your car’s RPM bouncing problem. Enjoy ;-)



Disclaimer: Use this info at your own risk!! I’m not responsible if this didn’t work for you.

This DIY / write-up will require the following tools/supplies:

Flashlight would be helpful.

11mm socket

Flathead screwdriver

Throttle body (TB) cleaner

OEM hoses if in need of replacement

Throttle body gasket and intake manifold gasket (not technically necessary, but a good idea)


It took me about an hour to remove, clean, and put back the ICV. Plus I let the hoses dry (while out of the car) for about 20 minutes on top of that.


First, start by opening the hood with the engine off and hopefully not too hot, as you will make contact with the block and the intake manifold.


You will take off the intake tube, shown below, by loosening the screws at the blue arrows, and pulling off the hose at the red arrow. Then pull the intake tube off completely.



Next, you remove the throttle body, by four 11mm bolts. The top two are shown with red arrows below. The bottom two are on the bottom of the TB, in the same position as the top two.



Move the throttle body off to the side, to gain access to the upper intake manifold, like this:



Next, we’ll disconnect the hose connecting the manifold to the ICV we wish to remove and clean. Behind the manifold, at the back of the engine bay, is the hose. Just twist it off, as shown by the red arrow.



Now it’s time to remove the upper intake manifold. Undo all 5 of the 11mm nuts attaching it to the lower manifold. The nut locations are highlighted below with red arrows. The nut in the rear of the engine bay is hard to get to, but a small 11mm socket and 1/4″ drive ratchet should get it out.



Next, carefully remove the manifold, by slowly lifting it up. I pried it off woodworker style using the backside of a hammer against the block. Be sure to remove it evenly though, lifting it up equally on all sides. Otherwise it will get stuck on the bolts on the manifold’s drivers side. It is easiest to place it as shown:



Now we have acces to the ICV. As shown below, it is attached with a rubber strap at the point shown with red arrows. The blue arrows indicate the electrical connection, which pulls of when you press down a wire clip. They also point to the hose connections, which you will also want to remove. Note the arrow on top of the ICV. It points TOWARDS the block. The part label with Bosch and the BMW part number written on it also face the front of the car. This is important. You want to put it back facing the correct direction.



Now, take the ICV and clean it. The image below shows the ports into which the tubes were plugged, and air flows, with a blue arrow. You’ll want to hit it with an old toothbrush and a gratuitous soaking with the TB cleaner. You may choose to clean the throttle body itself while at it with some paper towels and the cleaner.



Let everything dry, and clean off the hoses if you’d like. One of mine was cracked and therefore replaced, but washing the oil and grease off of them will help them last longer. Replace any that are cracked! They will make your idle worse and allow unfiltered air into the engine = bad. Be sure to let everything dry, especially items that were cleaned with water (hoses.) Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to connect ALL the hoses – double check!


Are you looking for more do it yourself procedures (DIY) ? I recommend the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual for you. I got it and I think it’s a gold mine for us -BMW E36 Owners-. If you didn’t grab your copy yet, get it right now! I’m sure you’ll find this book worth every penny you’ve paid for. Get the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual


Wait for more from BMW E36 Blog.


Best regards,

Tony Sticks.

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There are currently 133 responses to “Cleaning E36 ICV (Idle Control Valve) . . . DIY!”

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  1. 1 On December 5th, 2007, Greg said:

    Just purchased e36 318is 1995. It suffered eratic idle and would some times run rich on startup. I found that car had suffered failed right hand engine mount, which was repaired. But what I found is that the failed engine mount had in fact caused premiture cracking of the inlet bellow style hose between throttle body and air flow air mass meter. This in fact more air entering engine than air mass meter ws measuring and stuffing up the critical balance of air fuel mix. Hope this helps and one who has similar problem. Check small hose that goes from bellow hose to icv as well see tony sticks post. regards Greg

  2. 2 On December 29th, 2007, lee said:

    hi just joined the site i have a e36 320i m50 i was wondering if you knew where the camshaft pulse generator is located as i cant find anything on the net cheers lee

  3. 3 On January 5th, 2008, andy bonn said:

    hi.. this blog helps a lot.. i had a 318 1992 model. the idle really goes up and down sometimes. havent checked it yet. i also had a problem with the aircon when the idling of the engine was malfunctioning so with the aircon.

  4. 4 On February 22nd, 2008, Kumi said:

    so did this stop the rough idle

  5. 5 On February 24th, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    Hi Kumi,

    Unfortunately, cleaning the ICV didn’t work for me. It made it a little better but what fixed the problem was the Oxygen Sensor replacement. Actually the problem with my idle is not 100% fixed, but it’s close.

  6. 6 On March 20th, 2008, Johnny said:

    1995 318is **THIS HELPS**

    I had this problem as well. Very erratic idle that would go WAY up and then WAY down – even stalling. It was made worse when applying brakes, turning, using heat/AC. Check Engine Light would come on now and then.

    First try at fixing the problem: a new O2 Sensor – Didn’t fix it. But the check engine light went off, so I think it was a bad sensor.

    Second try: I had the same cracked hose Greg described in his comment above, and fixed that *This partly fixed the problem* car stopped stalling BUT the idle was still erratic, and it would stall a few times each time it was started

    Third try: Cleaning the valve as described here has smoothed out the idle and everything is working well now. No more stalls, nice even idle. Thanks!

  7. 7 On March 20th, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    Thanks Johnny for the detailed description of the problem and how to fix it.

  8. 8 On March 30th, 2008, Frank said:

    Hey Guys,

    Just a little curiosity, Went for a drive in a highway yesterday, and when i got home, i smelt this rubbery smell somewhere infront of the car trying to sniff around cudnt figure out where the rubber smell came from but notice it only releases when i use more power or in a highspeed, any tips for these guys?

    Thank you.

    Frank :)

  9. 9 On March 31st, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    Hi Frank,

    I think I have noticed this once or twice before, but honestly, I have no idea what’s causing it.

  10. 10 On March 31st, 2008, Frank said:

    had the car at full service today, and that rubbery smell we thnk its from the engine somewhere (overheating causing some rubber to breakdown-had it on sportsmode) while as the mechanic also notice the fan (radiator?) isnt working at all, not until he took off the sensor it start spinning again. Also the water cooler in the right side isnt warming up too which he said causes the fan to not to function at all (which he also find it weird), anyways, we ended up unscrewing the water tap slowly after the test drive and brought up some air stuck inside which he thinks the “cause” but somehow after those air got brought up, water cooler in right side start to heat up again and that suppose to fix it however 10 mins laters in the traffic, it started kinda having trouble reving up (as its usual mode of this car)obviously the radiator isnt fix and is still malfunctioning, at same time refuses the engine to produce more power????
    o god, sorry about this explaination if it isnt clear enough, so not mechanically minded….



  11. 11 On April 1st, 2008, Tony Sticks said:


    Try to check the coolant level in your radiator now and see if it’s went down or not. Please make sure the car is cold before you do this.

  12. 12 On April 2nd, 2008, Frank said:

    Yeh, check it this morning, it went about 6-8 inches down after got filled up, so i re-fill it anyways. Does that makes a difference? It also funny coz after a long drive my radiator isnt spinning….

  13. 13 On April 2nd, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    Hi Frank,

    There’s a mark on the radiator reservoir which shows where the coolant level should be, make sure to fill the reservoir to that mark and check after one day or two. Maybe you have a leak somewhere.

  14. 14 On April 3rd, 2008, Frank said:

    yeh at the moment i got an oil leak, but does that connect to the radiator’s part?

    yeh i will keep an oil on that water level.

  15. 15 On April 3rd, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    Oil Frank? You mean coolant, right?

  16. 16 On April 3rd, 2008, Frank said:

    o god sorry tony, yeh coolant….. :S hehe. I been keeping an eye on that.
    but yeh oil leak is also a little problem. thinking of bringing this to bmw mechs.
    My main question about this car is, it takes so long to reach 60km sometimes, that happen so often that i made a little traffic behind me and half a time people just overtake. I dont understand all these tehcnical stuff but i just need to know why does it start real slow. is this normal bmw probs?

  17. 17 On April 3rd, 2008, Frank said:

    I know it’s a wide range question but do you kno how many hours does it take normally to fix engine/transmission problem? just approximately.

  18. 18 On April 3rd, 2008, squid 66 said:

    Has any one ever taken the fuel tank out of a 318IS, I have to. I have a small fuel leak on the breather line coming from the fuel tank. It only leaks if tank is over half full and heavy braking or cornering. The 318IS has a purge tank which has a 8mm breahter line going to engine bay canister.
    Now to remove fuel tank to get to breather lines I have to remove drive shaft, exhaust pipe with cat and disconnect park brake cables from wheel assembleys. I am planning this job for a few weekends time so I let you all know how I go. If any of you have any tricks please advise. My 318IS has lowered Kings Suspension, M3 body kit and M5 17″ rims. I have only seen 3 like that here in little old Adelaide South Australia…..

  19. 19 On April 3rd, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    Hi Frank,

    I’m not sure if the coolant leak in your car would make your car that slow. I think you have more than one problem. I suggest you run a diagnosis for the car to find out what’s wrong with it.

    About the coolant level, it should stay at the max mark on the reservoir. If you’ve noticed a drop in that, I suggest you check your radiator and reservoir for possible cracks.

    Oh yes, about the time it requires to fix the engine and/or transmission, I guess it depends totally on what kind of problem that you have.

  20. 20 On April 3rd, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    Hi Squid,

    I’m sorry I can’t be of much help to you. But I would appreciate if you give us any update about how this will go. Good luck!

  21. 21 On April 8th, 2008, Frank said:

    Hi Tony,

    Yeah i totally agree, seems to me that this car have heaps of probs. I mite talk to
    mechanics about diagnosis test, just dont want to go there feeling like im lost
    in the woods or something and rip me off after.
    Anyways i’ll b in touch.

    Thank you for your help Tony.


  22. 22 On April 8th, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    Frank, I suggest you run the diagnosis, but don’t fix anything before doing a little research. This way, they won’t be able to rip you off ;-)

  23. 23 On April 9th, 2008, Frank said:

    Im mite be sounding like a rookie here but, what do you do to run the diagnosis test?

    so sorry man.


  24. 24 On April 9th, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    It’s ok Frank, no problem :-)

    Any decent BMW service garage will have a specific device for the diagnosis. It looks like this

    They will connect it to your car’s diagnostic data port (under the hood) and run a diagnosis. After that, the diagnosis device will show all the problems that have been found.

  25. 25 On April 10th, 2008, Frank said:

    is it only the bmw mechs have those device? i got mine booked in with automotive specialist, they have a descent garage area however
    they not that big company, just the people next door where i work
    coz i’m not sure if i really need to bring this vehicle to bmw mechs but did some observation in the vehicle
    and notice these:
    – having trouble changing gear in 3-4th gear (or take a while too)
    – sometimes, starts real slow from traffic lights that worst if its on a hilly road.
    – if air/con has been on for a while and next time i unlock the car, alarm would go off.

    Thank you.

  26. 26 On April 10th, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    Hi Frank, this device is not designed for BMW cars only. It can run diagnosis for many brands. So, I guess you have to ask them if they have that device. One more thing, I suggest you run the diagnosis before doing anything else.

  27. 27 On April 18th, 2008, Dallas said:

    hey, stumbled across this page after i’ve been having some similar issues with my beemer, hopefully someone might be able to assist me..
    I have a 1993 Automatic 320i E36 down here in Brisbane Australia. Almost 185000 kms on the clock.
    Started having some issues with it at the start of the year. Worst issue so far I was accelerating and the rev’s started jumping up and down (approx between 500rpm and 3000rpm), car started to lose speed and would not accelerate. Pulled it over and turned it off. Tried to turn it on and first few attempts were unsuccesful. After trying for several times after the car finally turned on how ever the ignition sound was very rough and took ages to start. When it was on, the car was also shaking more than usual at idle, hard to explain but when it happens you know its bad. I turned the car off and gave it about 20 minutes to rest. Turned it on again and it started fine, drove it about 5 minutes down the road and it started to play up again. Rough idle at lights with the feeling its about to stall, was losing power also, then wouldn’t start again. Ended up getting it towed. Took it to a mechanic the next day and they couldn’t duplicate the issue, and the car was running fine all day. Couple of days later it did the same sorta thing again whilst accelerating up a hill, how ever i wasnt far from home so the car managed to make it.
    Car was recently serviced at this time. My Fan controller, or whatever it is called, requires replacement as the fan does not spin as fast as it should be but I wouldn’t think that would cause this issue. I also get rough idle with the A/c on, as well as other random times. Since then I haven’t had any real issues whilst driving the car :s. Very annoying though as Im’ not sure if this problem ‘fixed itself’, or is likely to reoccur randomly.
    Found in my drive way today also a hose about 30cm long sitting under my car with several holes in it. No idea where it came from lol, hoping it might have something to do with my issue. I’m going to get a mate to check where the hose came from on the weekend as I dont have much ‘engine experience’.
    My apologies if none of all that makes sense :P.
    If anyone is able to suggest some possible things to look at relating to my problem that would be greatly appreciated.

  28. 28 On April 18th, 2008, Dallas said:

    Update. Just took it to a mates place who also has the same car as me and does alot of DIY, and found the hose which had failed and broken in half. Pic is attached with a circle around each end of where the hose should be. The hose was also fractured in several places with small holes particular where the hose bends. Does anyone know if this may have been the cause to my issue outlined in the previous post? enginebay :


  29. 29 On April 18th, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    Dallas, did you try to replace that hose and see if that will solve your problem?

  30. 30 On April 29th, 2008, Andy said:

    Thats the breather hoose for the crankcase ventilation, since you have som oil leakage you should by a new O-ring.

  31. 31 On May 30th, 2008, DG888 said:

    hey Dallas.. problems with the crankcase ventilation or associated hoses will definitely cos erratic idling.. hoses do crack due to aging.. power loss and engine cut off during driving can also be due to worn out oxygen sensor.. it is recommended to change that sensor every 50000km or so…

  32. 32 On June 18th, 2008, ukfrog said:

    Hi Tony, and everybody else.

    I have an other problem with my 325i 1993 M50 None vanos.
    My idle is chucky and I’ve looked at everything I can think of, but nothing seems to sort the problem out!
    I have cleaned the ICV sensor, thnaks tony for detailed post. I changed the TPS, and also the O2 sensor, I checked for air leaks on all hoses, and on the intake manifold, I’ve checked that the MAF was working. I also had the garage check plugs and injection system, I also cleaned the throttle plate and housing.
    Now all the above work fine, I have no show on fault codes at diagnosis, but I still have chucky engine.
    Can someone point me in the right direction please?

    I have made 2 videos, one from the engine bay, the other at the exhaust end, the second is because you can hear the sound a lot better from there.
    The videos are posted on youtube on the following link.

    Could you please come back to me with your thoughts about this, and post your views.
    At this stage, any help is welcome!!! LOL
    Thanks all.

  33. 33 On June 20th, 2008, Don said:

    Wow! This worked perfectly. It took about an hour, start to finish, and the car runs great.

  34. 34 On June 20th, 2008, Andy said:


    That sounds like missfiring, could be a coil bad coils are not always shown on diagnostiks test.

  35. 35 On June 21st, 2008, ukfrog said:

    Quote[That sounds like missfiring, could be a coil bad coils are not always shown on diagnostiks test.]end Quote

    I just finished testing Voltage and Resistance on the coils, the all in good working order.

    The reading I got was 9.70V and a even 0.5 Ohms per coil.
    This metting the Bosch Chart, I take it they are working…
    Thanks for idea anyways…I think now it was a Manday or Friday car GR*@*#RR

  36. 36 On June 21st, 2008, ukfrog said:

    Read “Monday car” in previous post.
    Eye, brain, fingers, coordination problem, if you see what I mean?

  37. 37 On June 21st, 2008, Andy said:

    I have an idleing problem and crack in the window, will probalby send it to the junk.

    A shame its a nice 525 , but a killede my catalytic converter beacuse i did not change my tempsensor.

    and gasprice is awful, but i love the its best over 5000 rpm =)

  38. 38 On June 21st, 2008, Andy said:

    do you have a gas spell or something, checked for a leaking fuel rail?

  39. 39 On June 21st, 2008, ukfrog said:


    No, No gas leaks. I think I has to be related to the intake somehow. I just changed all the plugs also with no change in the idle. The head is new so head gasket, and intake gaskets are new. So somewhere else in the intake. Or electrical but from faulty sensor, maybe stuck or broke down on setting that will let the car start and run but shorting a circuit or giving wrong reading….But not showing on code because it looks like it’s still working.

  40. 40 On June 28th, 2008, Sasha said:

    Hey guys!

    I dont know if anybody had this problem or not, my electrical shift control light came up yesterday, and then car shifts into 4th gear, (automatic)

    So i searched online for the answer and I didnt find anything, besides, it migth be throttle control sensor, or something like that. after replacing that I still have the same problem, Sometime thow when I turn the car off and start it again the light will go off, and then as soon as I will drive up the hill the light will come up again and i will be in 4th gear again, So did anybody had simullar problem??? any advice how to fix it, please let me know, i dont want to take to a diller when its might be just a little problem, thanks,

    ///Sasha – 92 325i

  41. 41 On June 28th, 2008, ukfrog said:

    Check your transmision oil level.

  42. 42 On July 3rd, 2008, Harout said:

    I noticed something in the very first photo that could contribute to the rough idle problem. The intake air duct has a long crack on the third bend from the left. Chances are that if the crack has penetrated through the duct it becomes a major source for vacuum leakage.

    On my car’s engine the duct had two long cracks and the accompanying extremely rough idle. I used duct tape and plastic ties to seal the crack temporarily. It fixed the rough idle problem completely.

    Needless to say I’ve ordered all the flexible ducts and vacuum hoses that are part of the air intake system, just to make sure that there is no leak in the system.

    1995 318ti

  43. 43 On July 3rd, 2008, BMW E36 M42 DISA Valve | BMW E36 Blog said:

    […] with my BMW E36 318is idle and until now, I was unable to totally fix the problem. I’ve cleaned the ICV, changed oxygen sensor, checked for vacuum leaks but this didn’t solve my problem. I still […]

  44. 44 On July 3rd, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    @Harout: Wow! thanks for noticing this. You know this may be causing the whole problem in that car. But as you said, it may not have penetrated the air duct like in the case of my car. My had a tiny crack like this, but I changed it anyway and it didn’t enhance my car’s idle at all.

  45. 45 On July 24th, 2008, BMW E36 Knock Sensors | BMW E36 Blog said:

    […] Cleaning ICV (Idle Control Valve): A very straight forward task. This unfortunately didn’t solve my problem completely but it […]

  46. 46 On August 5th, 2008, Bcy said:


    why not check the injector nozzle? i am having same prob my mech just recommend that. I’ll fed u back.

  47. 47 On August 5th, 2008, Andy said:

    I cleaned mot idle control Valve on my m50b25 it made no difference.
    The idling is now very bad going up and down.
    My lamdasond is also changed (oxygen sensor).

    My fault code reader gives me fault code “lambda control” wich means its getting to much or to little of gas or air.
    Next step is to change the intakemanifold gasket and at the same time check the rubber gasket on each fuelrail.

    Since a changed everything else and its saying lamda control it could possible be the gaskets.

  48. 48 On August 6th, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    @Andy: Have you checked your car for vacuum leaks ?

  49. 49 On August 7th, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    @Bcy: I would love to hear more about that. Please let us know of any results you get.

  50. 50 On August 28th, 2008, Gareth said:

    I stumbled upon this website yesterday because my car (e36 316i 98′) suffers similar problems but not quite so bad, however When i fill my car it struggles to idle, accelorate and even stalls. It then sounds alot like a volkswagen beetle. 10kms later its running perfectly – does this every time! any advice would be very much appreciated!

  51. 51 On September 5th, 2008, Vidma said:

    Hi all,
    I have strange problem with idle RPM. RPM goes ~500-1000, but not always. It can be when engine is a bit more up from blue zone in temperature gauge, till engine gets wormed. But not always. And what is weirdest, that RPM goes up / down when car is moving, when it stops, idle gets normal…
    E36 M50b25 vanos 94’
    Idle valve was cleaned, O2 sensor works good, TPS changed, spark plugs changed, coils changed, DME changed, fuel pressure good, injectors changed, no air leek, filters are changed, mass air flow sensor changed.
    Does anyone has any ideas?
    Can it be of the crankshaft position sensor, or of bad timing?
    I think of that I have poor engine power (~10s / 100km/h), poor exoneration.

  52. 52 On September 7th, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    @Vidma: Wow! I can see that you’ve covered all the points that I was going to suggest. Does your scan tool show any errors?

  53. 53 On September 7th, 2008, Andy said:

    Vidma have you checked your car for vaccum leaks?
    My idling problems have become worse before idle just went up and down when it was cold now it does it all the time. idle goes from 500 to 1200 up and down.

    I belive its a broken intake manifold gasket or an leaking fuel injector since it smells fuel..

  54. 54 On September 8th, 2008, Vidma said:

    No errors were showed, when checked in BMW service… (checked 3 times). And there are no vacuum leeks – checked visually, main hoses were changed, and checked using air fresher :) its not best way, but it really works.
    On Saturday I checked for ignition timing, and fond out, that sprockets were moved through 1 sprocket tooth, and I don’t know, if it can be of that…
    On Saturday checked again for air leeks, cleaned ICV, changed crankshaft position sensor. Maybe it will help, and I will not have to set timing, as it requires a lot of time and money :)
    I’ll drive few days and will inform you, if my Saturday work was useful :)

  55. 55 On September 8th, 2008, ukfrog said:

    Please do post results here. I have an Idle problem myself on my 325i, and have tried everything. Test results also come out clear of faults.
    Let us know what comes out of it.

  56. 56 On September 8th, 2008, Andy said:

    Vidma have you tried to replace lmm?
    Have you checked you temp sensor gage Then one to the box not the gage.

    How does your car run if you pull the battery fo 1 hour?
    does it run fine for an half hour before it comes back?

  57. 57 On September 8th, 2008, Gareth said:

    Hey, I posted this before but it seems it never came through… The solution to my problem was changing my Charcoal Filter – in my car its located behind the air intake above the front left wheel arch. (its black and cylindrical in shape, roughly 20cm long)I didnt even touch my icv. My car has done 220000kms and is a 98 model if it means anything as far as age is concerned…

  58. 58 On September 8th, 2008, Andy said:

    The problem could be anything, crack in a house, faulty lmm, fuelleakage, bad idle control valve.
    I know one guy who solved the problem by replacing dme.

  59. 59 On September 9th, 2008, Vidma said:

    So yesterday it started again…
    p.s. I swapped my 2.0vanos to 2.5 vanos, and there were no such problems with 2.0, and carbon filter is from 2.0, so I don’t think, that its my problem, but maybe I should to try to disconnect it to try… (I have changed everything for swap, wires, DME, all sensors, exhaust, final drive and etc. all sensors got with an engine, or bought used parts by codes).
    DME is changed from M50b25vanos without such problems (will check it once more tomorrow), same with air mass flow sensor.
    Temperature sensor is changed (new). I don’t think, that injectors are leaking – fuel pressure don’t decrees in 30 min, when fuel pump is activated and shut down. A fuel pressure is steady on road till redline (~3 bar + ~0.2-0.3 bar).
    ICV I have 2, both were cleaned, when I’m start A/C, rpm raised a bit, or on same level, it means its good.
    What is LMM?

    Andy – interesting question with battery. Its really drives good, when I disconnect battery for ~1h, and no RPM jumps. But its hard to decide if its true, as I said, RPM jumps comes not always… when I go do work in a morning, it can be good, but when I go home after work, it start jumping until temperature gets normal. After that, when engine is shut down and left for a ~30-60min and engine is started again, it can jump again, or it can be steady.
    On Saturday I disconnected a battery for ~12h, when connected it and got ~150 km of road till yesterday, when went of work to go home, and RPM stats jumping again… previously, after a battery was disconnected, RPM was got for ~1-2h, and then jumps starts. Do you have an idea?

    I have a new lambda, but when diagnostic was done it shown that old one works good so I didn’t tried to replace it.

  60. 60 On September 9th, 2008, Andy said:

    When you disconnect the battery the adaption values is erased from dme, it the runs on fixed values.
    If you try a different dme make sure its the right one, check the serial number.

    LMM is mass airflow sensor #1 i the picture.

    Strange things can happen when tube #3 has small cracks in it cracks you barly can see and the tubes going to it unfortuallt i have replaced the tube but that is not my problem.

  61. 61 On September 9th, 2008, Greg (Squid) said:

    Has anyone ever tried to repair the electic actuator motor that fails on the door locks of e36 BMW’s. I had the situation of the passenger door not operating correctly on my 318IS e36 and removed the actuator assembley, a quick task of less than 10 minutes if you know what you are doing. I used a good light and a mirror and found that there is a clip that holds the actuator in the lock assembley, simple hold clip back with flat blade screw driver and out it comes.
    I dissassembled the motor from the switch assembley and found the brushes of the motor where not in contact with the amature any more. With enough thickness on the brushes I adjusted the tension of the brushes to amautre contact to a positive pressure. I also found that the capacitor on the switch had failed. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE SPECIFICATION / UMMS OF THE CAPACITOR IS AS MINE HAD NO IDENTIFICATION ON IT. This acts as a noise supressor spark supressor on the switch.
    Here is South Australia an actuator assembley will cost $160.00 and my only cost is the capacitor approx $5 each and the joy of repairing it myself.

  62. 62 On September 10th, 2008, Andy said:

    DOn’t you have one on the driver side witch you can take apart and measure?

  63. 63 On September 10th, 2008, Vidma said:

    DME I have tried has the same code (..413 I think).
    LMM – tried to change one (used part), and another from same E36 without such problems – no difference.
    Tube #3 is changed to new.

    One more interesting thing, that can be of the same problem. My economizer stopped working, when car is now moving, it shows infinity (as should be), but when I’m driving, it always shows 0. previously it worked, and when RPM were jumping, economizer arrow was jumping to, and now stopped working correctly.

    Just got DME, and At-instrument cluster from another E36 M50b25 vanos, will try it today.

    Just thinking, if my problems go away when I disconnect battery, so the problem should be only electrical? Or it can be of incorrect ignition timing?

    If I’ll get a pit, I’ll try to replace lambda. It shows, that my is working correctly, but as I have a new one, I’ll try, as I run out of ideas…

  64. 64 On September 10th, 2008, Andy said:

    I’am not a mechanic but if its incorrect timing, should it be bad all the time, eaven if the battey is disconected?
    I mean timing still remains the same?
    the problem can be electrical but it can also be an leak witch causes a sensor to record faulty data or bad values a it makes the car run bad.

  65. 65 On September 10th, 2008, Vidma said:

    There is photo of my sprocket. You can see, that its not in right place, but I don’t know if it can influence engine work so hard… and can RPM jump of bad timing? Shouldn’t it just find out as less power?

  66. 66 On September 10th, 2008, Andy said:

    Does the idleing change if you pull the dipstick? (oil).

  67. 67 On September 10th, 2008, Andy said:

    Vidma why do you belive the timing has changed?
    I’am looking at the picture but i can’t get it.

  68. 68 On September 10th, 2008, Vidma said:

    When I pull out dipstick, nothing happens. When I take off cover lid, RPM gets lover a bit (it can be heard more, then to see on speedometer).

    And I cant get it from my head, why jumping stops, when car stops… what part can influence such things…? Is it possible that speed sensor on rear-axle-drive is used for fuel supply, or ignition? It would explain why RPM jumping stops, but it sounds weird…

    I even checked for air leaks in exhaust system, before lambda, but its good.

  69. 69 On September 10th, 2008, craigy said:

    hi guys i have a bmw 1997 318 is coupe and i have a terrible hesitation problem.
    it drives fine for a bout 10 minutes then the problem starts. driving along normal then
    the power will die engine does not respond then will give a splutter exhaust will pop then
    will drive fine for about 30 secnds and do it again. its realy doing my head in now.
    it was put on a diagnostic computer which came up as fault code mas air flow sensor,
    which i changed and the fault is still there. plugs have been changed, coil pack,
    fuel filter, exhaust dont realy what else to do. its also using great amounts off fuel.
    20miles to £10 thats wiv the spluttering included. please hope some one can help
    cheers craig

  70. 70 On September 10th, 2008, Andy said:

    Vidma, you said you checked airleaks with air fresher.
    Using ether is a better way, but keep in mind that its extremly flameable.

  71. 71 On September 10th, 2008, Vidma said:

    Yes I know, that’s why I used it, when engine was cold, and I had a fire-extinguisher by my side :)

    Ok, if someone will have any ideas of my problem, pls post it. And I will let you know, if I’ll find a solution :)

  72. 72 On September 10th, 2008, Vidma said:

    By the way – today i’ll try to film my idle jumps with mob, that you could imagine what is the problem in real.

    And just found a link, where were talking about whistling noise (noise as cricket makes) on idle RPM, and noise goes away, when RPM is increased. I have same problem, changed bearings, belts, tensioners, but noise is still there… the reason of this (in this link) was air leek. So no I’m sure I have leeks too… it would explain my idling and low CO in gas.
    But for him (person in link) problem was with “crankcase breather valve”, but where I can find it in my car? I don’t know such part…
    And another question – how can I check for leeks? I couldn’t find it visually and with air fresher. Maybe there is more effective way to check for leeks?

  73. 73 On September 11th, 2008, Vidma said:

    Tried to check for leeks one more time – no effect.
    Tried to change DME – no effect.
    Tried to change speedometer – economizer still not working as should.

    p.s. my phone couldn’t take good quality film, so no image I can show…

    Does anybody knows, which sensors are used to get info for economizer in speedometer?

  74. 74 On September 12th, 2008, Greg (Squid) said:

    Thanks Andy just tring to save time and effort

  75. 75 On September 12th, 2008, DG888 said:

    Vidma, have you checked the air flow sensor? i skipped most of the postings so not sure if you have. Incorrect air flow can cause erratic rpm.

  76. 76 On September 12th, 2008, Andy said:

    I have read some forums regarding when car is running bad and idle is unstable, a lot of people have solved this by cleaning or replacing lmm (MAF).

    Why it hasen’t been done earlier is beacuse a bad mass airflow sensor does not always show a fult code when diagnostics is run.

    I have got a can of mass airflow sensor cleaner and going to clean it to see if it improves anything.

    When cleaning it procceed with caution done break the small wires i the sensor, don’t blast the spray right at it.

    Its costing me more money to have the car sitting if this doesen’t solve anything i might send it to the junk.

  77. 77 On September 12th, 2008, Vidma said:

    Yes, I have tried to change MAF (used), but no changes…
    When we did diagnostics, we looked for MAF work, and it showed ~13kg. Actually service man told, that this amount can be not correct, as he sow earlier another amount on another E36 2.5, but he cant say what amount should be. (it was not a BMW service). We made air leek, and it could be seen by incoming air, and lambda work (incorrect fuel mixture).
    But when we unplug connector of MAF, engine work got much worse…
    p.s. one time I forgot to connect MAF connector, and this was really easy to see, that something was wrong, as RPM started to jump ~300-1200 RPM, and it didn’t stopped, when car stops…
    And I have tried another MAF from my friends 2.5 without such problems, so my problem was still there, and for him (with my MAF) RPM was good… so I think my MAF’s both are good…

    I think I’ll try to set ignition timing, as a top chain got to left through 1 sprocket teeth. It can be solution of my lover power.

    And I cant get of my mind, that fuel consumption meter is not working properly… but as I could get info, meters can be several types, and I don’t know which is installed in BMW… usually it should get info from MAF, of incoming amount of air, and car speed.

    Now I think, my problem usually gets, when car is wormed, but not fully, till it gets fully wormed, so can it be of lambda preheated is not working good… in that case errors can be not saved in DME. (or not always)

  78. 78 On September 13th, 2008, DG888 said:

    Vidma, is crankcase breather valve the same as crankcase vent valve?? if it is, than faulty vent valve causes erratic rpm on idle as well… in your case you face problems when car is not on idle.. so you can probably rule the vent valve out..

  79. 79 On September 16th, 2008, Vidma said:

    But I don’t know such breather valve… I know 2 ventilation hoses, and fuel tank ventilation valve, but this one is changes too…
    Can you show me this valve for E36?

  80. 80 On September 16th, 2008, DG888 said:

    This is the valve I mean:
    I am not sure if it is the same as breather valve though.

  81. 81 On September 16th, 2008, Andy said:

    Part # 4 the reducer does not exist on my car.

    And # 1 is just an connector, i have changed the oring gasket.

  82. 82 On September 16th, 2008, Andy said:

    # 4 does nt exist the tube goes directly in to the intake manifold.

  83. 83 On September 16th, 2008, Vidma said:

    So this car doesn’t have such thing as valve of breather… we have cleaned this hose, before swapping motor and I checked its gasket, but its good and no leeks through it.
    I think my problem can be of LZ preheated problem, so when I’ll try to change LZ, maybe I’ll have news for you.

  84. 84 On September 17th, 2008, DG888 said:

    Part No 11; Crankcase Vent Valve

  85. 85 On September 17th, 2008, Joe said:

    Hello all,

    My 1998 328i has an idling problem. When I first start it up in the morning it has a rough idle. Then, it feels like it’s “missing” a bit or wants to stall, when it’s in drive and idling (like when I’m sitting still at a traffic light). Sometimes, it idles smoothly and sometimes it doesn’t. I’m just learning how to fix somethings on my car and hope it’s something minor to repair. I wasn’t sure if I should change my spark plugs first, then go from there?

    Thanks for the help,


  86. 86 On September 17th, 2008, Andy said:

    It depends on how old they are….

  87. 87 On September 17th, 2008, Joe said:

    Thanks, Andy.

    I think my car might be due for a tune-up. Recently, I replaced the air filter, air-intake manifold, and a few minor things like that. I’m guessing I’d just have to replace the spark plugs now.

    Obviously, I should check some wire connections and a few more things like that before I post a question.

    Sorry, all.

    Thanks again.

  88. 88 On September 18th, 2008, Vidma said:

    Joe – you may check for a resistance of coils. It should be 0.4-0.8. Spark plugs – you should check them visually at first. They have to be smoked similar, all of them. Check connections of battery, engine wires with car body and etc. (loosen, corroded). Fuel filter, and air filter.
    But it should be of spark plugs I think.

  89. 89 On September 18th, 2008, Andy said:

    You said you change the airintake manifold, did you use new gaskets?
    If yes you have done a big part have you checked the rubber boot after MAF?

    Joe have you tried cleaning your ICW?

  90. 90 On September 18th, 2008, Vidma said:

    As for my problem – I have noticed, that as weather gets colder (now ~10C), engines work gets worse… when engine is cold, RPM needle gets down to fast after acceleration, and acceleration itself is very bad, RPM jumps got worse (now its ~300-1000). When engine gets worm to normal, RPM jumps stops, and acceleration gets lot better.
    So I decided to change coolant sensor one more time, and will change air temperature sensor too.
    And as I have 2 MAFs, I’ll clean one of them too, if I’ll wound such cleaner in our shops…

  91. 91 On September 18th, 2008, Andy said:

    Vidma There is a special spray “crc air sensor clean.”
    use alcolhol witch don’t leave anyting on the sensor when it dryes up.
    and don’t blast it just spray som mist it will clean.

  92. 92 On September 18th, 2008, Andy Bonn said:

    did somebody done this before on their m40 engine?

  93. 93 On September 19th, 2008, Andy said:

    I don’t the m40 has a maf

  94. 94 On September 19th, 2008, Andy said:

    I don’t think the m40 has a maf the construction is different.

  95. 95 On September 19th, 2008, Vidma said:

    No shop in my city had such spray… they even didn’t had heard about such thing…
    Same thing with air temp sensor, only original from BMW, but have to wait 2 weeks…
    It really sucks…

  96. 96 On September 19th, 2008, Andy said:

    Widma Where do you live?
    ‘If they sell crc and don’t know their products you can tell them to stopp selling carparts and utilites.
    Tell them that there is this page on the web google and punch in crc air sensor clean maybe they get lucky!

    Widma wich shops did you try?

  97. 97 On September 19th, 2008, Andy said:

    Witch sensor do you want to change do you have the one located under the manifold on he m50 enginge or do you whant to replace the one in the air intake housing.

    A few cars have both, a only have the one in the air intake housing.
    and there are 2 diff ones one is electric if you have a wire to it and another one works on wather like the thermostat on a radiator at home.
    Air goes true and makes it open or close and i passes more water in to the trottle body (don’t ask me why because i don’t know) if you have 2 hoses to it then you got the air intake sensor withc works with water.

  98. 98 On September 19th, 2008, Vidma said:

    I wanted to change both, coolant sensor, and that one, which is in Intake manifold, in the end of it. So or I have to chose used one, or will have to wait for 2 weeks for an original…
    I’ll have to remove intake manifold to access it, but I tried one time, and didn’t got last screw… we’ll find out some think…

  99. 99 On September 19th, 2008, Andy said:

    Widma there is no meaning of replacing the the black coolant sensor if your tempgage is working, beacuse that is only what it does it sends information to the gage, ig your gage is showing temp the sensor is working.
    What you wan’t to change is the blue tempsensor to the DME.
    But of course if you go on with taking manifold of the you take the time to replace both sensors and of course use new gaskets for the intake manifold, and if your icw is under the manifold its a good thing to clean that also.

    Widma it must be possible to go to any car part dealer to get the blue senosr, in what town are you located?

  100. 100 On September 19th, 2008, Vidma said:
    Only its in the back of intake manifold. I don’t want to change this one, that used for speedometer…

  101. 101 On September 29th, 2008, Vidma said:

    Yesterday I have changed LZ (new bosch), checked air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, both are ok. Checked timing – ok. And still have jumping rpm on idle…
    Nothing left to check, so I’ll have to live with it…

  102. 102 On September 29th, 2008, ukfrog said:

    Yeah, join the club mate. I’ve been over the engine, the wires, the sensors, the injectors, the coils, the plugs, the air intake, the exhaust line. Still have the problem and no show on faults.
    Idle sucks, works fine one day, the next it’s not.
    My conclusion is that it’s irregular fault, maybe a miss fire on a coil from time to time.
    Like you, I’ll live with it, that is till I part exchange this for my next one. May not be a Bemmer this time, made me sick off the site of them this problem has.
    Looking at getting Audi, or something else not sure yet.
    But I’m surely not getting an other E36 in my life time.

    RIP E36

  103. 103 On September 29th, 2008, Andy said:

    I think you getting it wrong
    “# 100 On September 19th, 2008, Vidma said:
    Only its in the back of intake manifold. I don’t want to change this one, that used for speedometer…”

    The one in the back is not for speedometer, the one in the back is an airintake tempsensor, as it says in list, the speedometer does not have any component in the intake manifold.
    The speedometer gets its information from one of the sensors on the rear wheel.

  104. 104 On October 1st, 2008, Vidma said:

    Maybe my English is not very good. Speedometer temperature sensor is near coolant temp sensor, and I’m not interesting in it. I was talking about air and coolant sensors, but both are good.
    It gets that everything is good, but a problem is still there. Let it be… nothing left to check.

  105. 105 On October 10th, 2008, Joe said:

    Weeks ago, I posted a problem with rough idling in my 328i and today the problem was solved by installing a new set of spark plugs. Next time, I’ll do simple things like that before posting.

    I appreciate the feedback I got here and I’ll definitely keep this site bookmarked.


  106. 106 On October 10th, 2008, Andy said:

    Joe great that you solved it so easy, what brand was in the car before the change?
    What brand is the new sparcplugs?

    Do you see cracks in the old one?

  107. 107 On October 11th, 2008, Joe said:


    The old plugs were NGK BKR and had BMW printed on them. They had some dark, thick carbon deposits so I thought it was time to change them.

    I installed new NGK BKR6E V-Power plugs. I immediately noticed a difference in idling, acceleration, etc.

    I’m getting pretty handy with DIY car repairs. A year or so ago I did a minor repair of installing a new brake switch.

    Oh! I do have another problem. At times, my display shows a “Brake Light Circuit” problem when it seems I don’t have a problem with my brakes or brake lights. I had all new rotors, pads, etc. done about 2 years ago.

  108. 108 On October 16th, 2008, Vidma said:

    Latest new of my problem. I unplugged LZ heating relay, and my idle is steady now… almost steady. I was driving 4 days like this, and few times idle wanted to start jumping, but all time it gets steady. Or sometimes I can see very small idling jumps ~ 50 rpm. When I accelerate and leave engine to work on idle, it falls to ~500 rpm, and gets steady at normal ~650-700. it shows that not everything is good now, but…
    My LZ is new (same code), have changed 3 relays (used, same code), have changed DME.
    If it still shows small jumps, can it be only of that LZ signal is constant until gasses gets 300 C, and fuel mixture is richer, and that’s why idle is more stable? What do you think?
    I’ll get my car to a service to check wires of LZ and LZ relay to DME, but it will take a week, or 2 (lines).
    And now I cant get clear opinion about fuel consumption, as I was driving not a lot, but till now I cant say, that it will be more then before removing LZ relay.
    If fuel consumption will be the same, and no faults in wires will be founded, I think I’ll keep driving without relay, as this idle jumps got me mad, as I cant found a problem for about a year…

  109. 109 On October 25th, 2008, Rajiv said:

    hi, i followed the the step by step cleaning of icv and it solved my idiling problem compeletly ,furhrt i clean the air flow meter with carb clener and wd40….e36 now runs like a dream.

  110. 110 On October 26th, 2008, Tony Sticks said:

    @Rajiv: Congrats on fixing your idle problem.

  111. 111 On November 17th, 2008, Vidma said:

    There is video of my problem. If someone had same problem, and know how to fix it, pls advice.

  112. 112 On November 17th, 2008, Andy said:

    Widma can you record one again but turn the stereo off so i can listen to the engine, your problem looks identical to mine.

  113. 113 On November 18th, 2008, Vidma said:

    I’ll try, but its hard to catch a moment, when rpm is jumping, and I’m on normal road, as it usually starts when I’m going from a job on traffic jams…
    A sound is like I would push accelerator a bit. Its accelerating itself in short times.
    Anyway, I’ll try to film it today.

  114. 114 On November 21st, 2008, Vidma said:

    Tried to film, but no engine sound can be heard… my mobile is to weak…
    Andy – you had the same situation, that jumps stops when car stops, or you had jumps like mine, and rpm jumps were when car wasn’t moving? What was your solution of the problem?

  115. 115 On November 21st, 2008, Andy said:

    it jumps when puching clutch down or standing still in neutral.

    I haven’t seolved the problem yet.

  116. 116 On November 30th, 2008, Andy said:

    Widma how is it going with your problem?

    I toock my car for a spin today, to make the problem appear.
    But i only idles bad for about 20 sek after start.
    As usual this problem does not show up as often when it cold or wet outside.
    Im going to try it in a couple of days and when its warm and idling bad i’am going to pull the heating relay for lamda to see if it makes a instant difference.

    How expensive is the lamda heating realy to buy?

  117. 117 On December 1st, 2008, Vidma said:

    Andy – lambda relay shouldn’t do such effect, its for quicker heating, for ecologic purposes. That fuel mixture would be perfect asap. You’ll not get any difference, when you’ll pull out relay… but you may try, maybe heating component is bad…

    I got my car on diagnostics with carsoft 6.5 and got few errors. Maybe someone works with that program, and know what does these errors means?
    “Inst. Cluster dia. – Status ERROR -> read the error memory
    9 – Service period display (SIA)
    (This is if of that I didn’t reset my oil service)
    5 – Over supply on binder 15 is recognized

    11 – Colling liquid sensor voltage is not plausible
    (checked it on Saturday, got 5V – normal)
    12 – Oil temperature sensor voltage is not plausible

    Single diagnosis AIRCO – Status: ERROR
    34 Layering selector wheel
    Please check the connection of the white component plug PIN 21 to the layering selector wheel. There should be a voltage of approx. 5 volt on the layering selector wheel. If the connection is operative, the component must be replaced.”

  118. 118 On December 1st, 2008, Andy said:

    i have used carsoft i’ll try to figer out what it means.

  119. 119 On December 9th, 2008, Vidma said:

    I have changed my instrumental cluster and DME (from another M50b25tu), economizer don’t work anyway. I think it will be of wires.
    But got another news too. When I’m starting engine, rpm needle jumps for 1 time – as per manual, if needle jumps on start, then ignition is ok. And my rpm needle don’t get higher then ~1200 rpm on start (usually it gets as good start, of cold engine). Another thing is that I don’t have strong rpm jumps as previous, it became only 50-150 rpm. Engine response to acceleration on cold engine became better. Now I’ll driver for a few days to look for fuel consumption.
    I’ll inform you, what it will be.
    And got this whistling sound on acceleration, as it was on b20tu when it was driving fine :)
    p.s. DME was changed on Friday morning, so adaptation is over. Got a trip on weekend and for 120 km/h for 200 km I got ~25ltr, on way back 110 km//h for 200 km I got ~15ltr… interesting thing.

  120. 120 On May 10th, 2009, John said:

    Getting at the ICV in the M50 can be a royal pain….its located UNDER the intake manifold and unless you can tiny hands and wrists its next to impossible to reinstall properly without removing the manifold. Getting it out isn’t so bad, but good luck hooking up the hoses underneath and the clip they connect to.

    From past experience here’s what I know to check on these cars for hesitation and rough idle.

    1. ICV, cleaning it does help

    2. Check for intake leaks, although you’ll probably have some pretty bad surging if this is the problem

    3. The clip under the intake manifold where the ICV connects to, it can sometimes pop out or break. I epoxied mine in because I have a supercharger and it litterally shot it out across the engine bay one day under boost :)

    4. The MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor). This can either get dirty and need cleaning, especially the contacts on the connector, or, like what happend to me, a wire broke near the connector from age I think.

    5. Your intake boot has a hole in it….yeah this happens unfortunately, especially next to the ribs on the rubber. I think oil fumes in the engine bay eventually weaken the rubber..

    6. Vacuum Leak. If you have a vacuum gauge or boost gauge with vac on it, you can see if your car is at about 18-21psi at idle. (I ”think” this is the number, but please correct me if i’m wrong). If you don’t have a gauge then while the engine grab a propane torch and just turn on the propane a little bit, but don’t ignite it. Run the nozzle up and down all your lines and alone the intake parts as well. If the engine surges or changes idle while going over a certain spot, thats likely where the leak is.

    7. Your o2 sensor……I would leave this assumption to the very end because I can tell you for certain that the car does NOT use the sensor until the engine is at operating temperature. So if you have problems after you’ve just started up the car then its almost definitely not the o2 sensor. The car will run like complete crud if the sensor had an issue anyway, since it will default to using the MAF sensor only and the maps in the motronic ecu can only do so much to correct the a/f ratio

  121. 121 On May 11th, 2009, Lerato said:


    I have a problem with my E46 318i 2000 model, it overheats after about 20KM and when i open it in the front the water horses are so big.. they look like they will burst anytime. most of the parts are new (thermostat, radiator, “head is been cjecked for cracks”, water pump, V-belt); the only thing that i noticed that seem not to work properly is the crankshaft position sensor(pulse generator), can this cause the overheating? oh! and when the engine is running and switching it off, there is sound of air(pressured air) coming out but i cannot see where but its like coming from the back of the engine. it’s like there is some air coming in the engine at place where it’s not supposed to… please help


  122. 122 On May 18th, 2009, Vidma said:

    Lerato – maybe your radiator cap (its valve) is broken, and not working as should… it should hold ~2bar of pressure.
    And you can to try to do a “cooling system, bleeding”. Maybe there is air in the system.
    Have you tried to stop fan coupling on hot engine? Try it with scrolled paper. If it stops – its bad, if it don’t stop easily, then its ok.
    But I would check the cap of the radiator at first.

    Engine vacuum don’t have anything with cooling system…

  123. 123 On September 20th, 2010, Jake said:

    Hi Guys,

    Been reading your posts above and think that they will help as my car has recently started showing the same symptoms, the electrics in the car are also surging with the idle though? I’m not sure if this is an indication of a larger problem? For example after the car has been running for a while it gets a rough idle as mentioned above, if i have my lights on at the same time the head lights and guage back lights dim and brighten with the rise and fall of the rpm. Any ideas?

    Its a 95 318i running the m43b18,



  124. 124 On November 2nd, 2010, Jerry said:

    Jake, I would start with charging system.

  125. 125 On November 2nd, 2010, Jerry said:

    Mine is 92 318i E36. I had problems with rough idle, stall and hard start (cold hot and warm). Engine code 1215 (MAF). Checked vacumm hoses, battery, charging system, filters and everything was fine. Last weekend I took off the ICV without taking off the intake and throttle body. Cleaned it (brake clean), and cleaned the MAF and throttle. Now, it starts right away and no more rough idle, stall or hard start. Re-hooked the battery to clear up the code. It runs great! Thank you for your DIY post Tony!

  126. 126 On November 16th, 2010, Martin said:

    I would like to ask you one question. Should ICV somehow react to ignition or not? Mine does absolutely nothing, doesn’t matter ignition is on or off.
    The car is 93 318is M42B18. Month ago I had problem that after cold start it was idling way too high (~3000rpm). But that problem vanished, now there is only one issue: when I change to neutral gear, revs drop to ~500 then rise to normal ~800 and stay there.

  127. 127 On November 17th, 2010, Rob said:

    Hi, I have a 97 m3 evolution and was wondering if could tell me a easy quicker way of cleaning the icv as on my evo I have 6 throttle bodies and they are not easy to remove as you can imagine. Espically the back two near the bulk head.

    Reason for wanting to do it is that my revs drop to 500k occasionally instead of the standard 600 and on occasionion sit at 800.
    This came about after I cleaned my accelerator cable and took of my inlet and cleaned maf sensor!

    Asinine welcome

  128. 128 On July 26th, 2011, ray said:

    I have a 318 96 and have this whistle sound only when accelerate any idea what it could be it is not a turbo. cant hear nothing at idle.thanks

  129. 129 On August 21st, 2011, Richard said:

    Can you indicate me on how to clean the idle control valve on a 1997 318is with a M44 engine? As I can see on the photos here on your article the idle control valve are in different locations and have a totally different shape. On the M44 the idle control valve is located on the throttle body very easy to access, but seems the parts are different I would need the right info to clean it up
    Thank you for this nice write-up and hope you have an answer to my inquiry
    Again thanks

  130. 130 On June 30th, 2012, Flavio said:

    Carsoft 6.5

    12 – Oil temperature sensor voltage is not plausible

    Same here in my BMW 328i 1996 coupe.
    I don’t know where this sensor is in my motor.?
    Carsoft is giving this error eveytime.
    I clean up the error but it goes at hte time i turn the key on.

  131. 131 On July 1st, 2012, Richard said:

    Any comments on how to clean a ICV for a 1997 BMW E36 with a M44 (M44b19) engine. Thank you…

  132. 132 On September 22nd, 2012, jay said:

    Please help.Can I clean icv with petrol?.

  133. 133 On October 1st, 2012, Andy said:

    I would not clean it with petrol.

    Use carburator cleaner or breake cleaner.

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